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Writer's pictureJuliette Grossman

The effects of materials on the environment

Clothing makes up a fundamental part of our self-expression and defines how people see us. Unfortunately, the textile industry is the second most polluting industry in the world; a fact often overlooked in the mission to look stylish. So how can we find a way to

dress fashionably AND sustainably?


The simplest thing you can do to reduce your environmental impact when it comes to fashion is buy less and follow the ethical closet pyramid. However, if you aren’t in the mood to haggle

with budding ‘entrepreneurs’ on Depop and need to buy something new, it’s always important to consider which materials are considered eco-friendly and which ones not so much…



Some materials to avoid:



1. Synthetic Materials


Synthetic Materials refers to fibres made by humans through chemical synthesis, as opposed to naturally occurring fibres. These materials include polyester, nylon, acrylic and polypropylene, to name a few. Due to their cheap production costs and durability, synthetic materials are estimated to make up 65% of all fibres used in the fashion industry. However, these synthetic fibres come at a high cost to the environment. Made from petrochemicals, these materials are non-biodegradable, which contributes to the micro-plastic pollution that contaminates our oceans. This production process results in an overwhelming amount of chemicals, waste and carbon emissions.

vs.


Natural Materials

By contrast, natural fibres, made from plants, animals and geological processes, have a much smaller environmental impact than synthetic fibres due to their naturally occurring processes. Natural materials include silk, wool, cotton, linen and jute, to name a few. Some natural fibres are even considered to be carbon neutral, making this a much more ethical choice than the cheaper alternatives.


2. Cotton

Unfortunately, not all natural fibres are environmentally friendly. Cotton, for example, makes up around 21% of all fibres used in the fashion industry making it a likely staple in your wardrobes, however it is also the most pesticide intensive crop in the world. The cotton farming process leads to land clearing, soil erosion and contamination, and loss of soil biodiversity. It is estimated that 97% of the water in the Indus River is used to produce crops like cotton. A staggering 2,700 litres of water is needed to make one regular cotton T-shirt. This has caused irreparable damages to the Aral Sea in Central Asia, the Indus Delta in Pakistan and the Murray Darling River in Australia. As 27 million tons of cotton are produced yearly, the future impact will be devastating.


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Organic Cotton


Alternatively, organic cotton is a viable option to reduce your environmental footprint. No toxic chemicals are used in the growth of organic cotton. This is because organic cotton is produced using 100% natural seeds. Organic cotton doesn’t lead to soil damage, has less impact on the air, and uses 88% less water and 62% less energy. What’s more, organic cotton ensures its practices are ethical and conform to the International Labour Organisation’s (ILO) working standards. These are all important factors to consider when making your next purchase.


3. Leather


Despite being a naturally occurring material, leather is neither vegan nor an environmentally friendly material. The Food and Agriculture Organisation estimates that approximately 3.8 billion cows are used to make leather goods annually. The rearing of livestock results in deforestation, water and land overuse, and gas emissions. The Higg Materials Sustainability Index - which measures impact up to the point of fabrication - gives most leathers an impact of 159 (compared with 44 for polyester and 98 for cotton), due to its high contribution to global warming and water use and pollution. What’s more, the tanning process results in significant toxic waste and is harmful to the health of its workers. Ultimately, leather is a material that you should resist buying at all costs due to its highly detrimental impact on the environment, as well as the cruelty it causes to livestock.


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Vegan Leather


Fortunately, you can still achieve the chic appearance of leather without harming animals. Like all meat products these days, a vegan friendly version exists and comes at a considerably lower cost to both the environment and your budget! Often branded as ‘pleather’, vegan leather is made from a range of innovative and sustainable materials and has been taken up by designers such as Stella McCartney. Even Elon Musk has made the switch, with Tesla cars offering vegan leather seating. As a synthetic material, vegan leather does however produce toxins and release harmful chemicals into the atmosphere, but The Environmental Profit & Loss report states that the impact of vegan leather production can be up to a third lower than real leather. Plus no animals were harmed in the making!


Generally speaking, the purchasing of new clothing is a wasteful practise and comes at a considerable cost to our planet. Why not raid your roommates closet instead?



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